Sunday, December 20, 2015

Knits, knits, knits !!!

Knits are one of the scariest materials to work with for beginning seamstresses. Knits stretch and slide when you sew with them but practice and patience can help create some of the longest lasting and commonly worn garments you will ever make.

I have written a guest blog post for Sofilantjes about overcoming "Sewing with Knits" using the Sofilantjes Omni Tempore kid's pattern.

This post will review the differences between the most widely used knit fabrics. I have designed the bullet points below for a quick list and review of knits.

  • Jersey knit: Most commonly used, best for tees and summer dresses. Can be made of wool, cotton, and synthetic materials. Best to use cotton. 
  • Cotton Lycra: also used for tees. Material is made of cotton with a small percentage of lycra, or spandex. Soft to the touch, good stretch and recovery. This is typically the type of material used to make custom knits. 
  • Cotton ribbing: This can also be used for t-shirts and other clothing items but is limited to making cuffs, waistbands, and collars for garments. This is a double knit material with vertial rows. (Think men's sleeveless undershirts.)
  • Cotton Thermal: Cotton knit with a waffle pattern. This is best used for garments worn during cooler weather. 
  • French terry: Think terry cloth. This is a soft fabric. One side of the fabric is flat jersey-like while the other side has a higher pile. I recommend using this fabric for light-weight sweaters.
  • Sweatshirt knit: This one is easy to identify because it is how it sounds. This knit is the fabric used to make stretchy sweaters, like the typical store-bought hooded, zip-up, or crewneck sweaters.
  • Sweater Knit:
    • Hacci: These knits are light-weight stretchy materials. They are best for cardigans, light-weight shawls, and kimonos. Wrinkle resistant. 
  • Ponte de Roma: This knit has more structure to it, It is similar to the knit fabric used in store-bought polo shirts. Wrinkle and crease resistant. 
Recommended Sources for Knits

(upon receiving an order from a retail store I originally listed, I had to remove the retailer. Retail knit arrived saturated in the cigarette smoke. Lesson learned!)

***This is really a short list in comparison to the number of fabric resources that are available. I recommend visiting your local fabric stores in support of small business.
*** Also, feel free to ask me here if you are searching for a particular fabric or need any sewing help. I will do my best to help. 

Wednesday, December 16, 2015

Shirring: Don't be Scared

Hello, I wrote these blog post as a guest blogger at Sofilantjes about a month  back and have decided to share it here as well.

Too many people are scared of shirring. It is a great way to create a garment that will grow width-wise when needed. There is no need to be scared. The Sofilantjes Bruerum top and dress is a easy to follow pattern, best used to practice shirring. This cute little top has multiple skirt options, from top length to maxi.
Tips and Instructions key in shirring:
You will need:
  • The Sofilantjes Brueram top and dress pattern
  • Elastic thread is used in the bobbin (bottom thread)
  • Regular thread for the top
  • The fabric of choice (review page 11 for fabric chart)
  • pins
  • and of course your sewing machine
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For this Blog I made the top version in size 5. Please follow the instructions in the pattern closely so that you do not misstep. You will construct the bodice exactly as stated in the instructions given with the pattern. Remember that in steps 15 to 17 you are gathering and basting the top skirt piece separate from the back skirt piece. The side seams are left unsewn until step 25.
When you reach step 19 prep your bodice carefully for shirring. Please do not forget to pin the side seams to ensure that the main bodice back and the liner do not shift. Roll the elastic thread to the bobbin by hand. This will ensure that the bobbin is rolled correctly. While rolling the bobbin make sure you keep some tension on the elastic thread, stretching it slightly while rolling. Place the rolled bobbin in the sewing machine. For the top thread you will use regular sewing thread. I leave a long tail of elastic thread out to make sure that the bobbin thread feeds through the machine when I sew. For the sewing machine settings I left the default settings on. Thread width is set at 3.5 and stitch length is at 2.5. Stitch length is subject to fabric choices so practice shirring a small piece of the same fabric you will be using to make your garment.
IMG_20151106_131304
We will now begin to shir. I use my presser foot as my guide for where to start. It is best to space rows between 1/4" and 1/2". My presser foot helps space my rows at 3/8".
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Stitch from seam to seam in a straight line. You may not notice a lot of shirring after the first line. Continue to stitch the second row, using your presser foot as your guide.
IMG_20151106_134311
You can see in the picture above that the fabric is starting to gather after a few rows of stitching. Continue stitching the next rows until you reach the bottom of the bodice. Remember to use your presser foot to guide the spacing between the rows.
IMG_20151106_141057
This is what your bodice will look like in the end.
Complete constructing the Brueram following the instructions provided with the pattern.
This is my daughter wearing her new Brueram Top. She is in love with the hearts fabric.

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Please visit the Sofilantjes Blog page to read other Guest Blog posts following the schedule below. I am a guest blogger again on December 21 and I will be talking about KNITS!!!

October 7: Understitching
Adventures with Bubba and Bug
October 19: How to add pockets to a dress

Heart made by Suzy
November 2: How to adjust to skinny or plus size
Boutique Birdie
November 16: Shirring
Shani Sews
December 7: How to mash up patterns
Tales of a Tester
December 21: Sewing with knits
Shani Sews
January 8: Sewing on the perfect binding
Droomstoffen
January 14: How to make your on bias tape
Boevenbende
Febuary 1: French seams
Winingwife
Feburary 14: Handstitching the right way
Sprouting Jube Jube
March 7: Buttons/buttonholes
Maryall Made
March 14: How to alter a pattern
Deka Wear

Saturday, November 14, 2015

update....

You may already know that we just moved to a new house. With two kids and plenty of boxes, i have been keeping  myself extremely busy. BUT that hasn't prevented me from sewing a few pieces during my "down" time. I recently made a CKC Nova and a CKC Celeste, a Love Notions' Laundry Day tee (too die for). I have been spitting out projects for the holiday season. The CKC Nova is for my little lady's Thanksgiving dress and the CKC Celeste is for one of her Christmas outfits. Yes, I did say one of her Christmas Outfits. There are just so many events around Christmas that I have to create a different dress for each event. I will share pics as they come. 

This red and green Ruffled dream is the CKC Celeste. I made this one for their recent sew-along. Some have questioned the skill-level required to sew the Celeste up. Do not be intimidated by the sweetheart bodice, This is an easy sew. Stitch slowly around the curves and you cannot fail. The Celeste has button closures, so be ready to practice making buttonholes. The results are dreamy and really worth the practice. 

This natural beauty is the CKC Nova. The bottom rufflles will test your patience, so giev yourself a couple of days to finish this one. I needed to walk away from all the gathering at one point (it may have been because I was working of this baby late at night and my eyes did not want to stay open). :) I am thinking of adding a Monogram to the center of the bodice in a baby blue to match the trim. If this is a piece you will only use for the holidays consider embroidering words like "Thankful", "Celebrate", "Joyful". 


The Laundry Day Tee is a new, free release by Love Notions. The creations I have seen by other women of all different shapes has been inspiring and encourage. It is a quick sew and a great fit. Make sure to choose the proper fabric...so read the first pages of the pattern closely. Choosing the perfect weight and stretch makes a difference of the drape and fit of the tee. To get the pattern for free join the Love Notions Pattern Support Group on Facebook. 
I am planning to hem the bottom of this tee and the sleeves, but couldn't wait to share how great the fit is.
I made the tunic length version of the tee. I am tall and shirts do not usually give me the modest coverage I prefer. 



Tuesday, October 6, 2015

Hello Again after a long Break...

Hello Everyone,

Hope all my readers have been doing well. I apologize for being away for so long. I actually had some personal events arise that have kept me away from you all. I am now back and rocking out some new pieces. There are some Halloween costumes and Fall essentials coming up. In the next few days I will try to post pictures and pattern links to some of the pieces I am pushing out. I know you will all enjoy the girl and boy friendly projects to come.

In the next couple of weeks my Family and I are Moving!! So that's some exciting news. It means a bigger work space and some well needed Home Decor items for the Living Room, Kitchen, Dining Area, and Bedrooms. I look forward to sharing how I transform my new House into a Home as well as create some great garments for every family member.

News!!! News!!! News!!!

I am participating a Blog Tour with Sofilantjes. Anne creates such beautiful patterns, designed for knit and woven. If you are new to knit, I suggest trying out one of her easy to follow knit patterns. I will actually be sharing a post about the best way to sew knits. I will be making the Omni Tempore. The base of this pattern is a shirt but can be made into a hoodie. This is a great essential garment for the upcoming cooler days. Below I have listed and linked the Participants in the Sofilantjes Blog Tour. Show some love to these great seamstresses. They are all talented and can help you evolve your sewing skills.

October 7: Understitching
Adventures with Bubba and Bug
October 19: How to add pockets to a dress

Heart made by Suzy
November 2: How to adjust to skinny or plus size
Boutique Birdie
November 16: Shirring
Frail Designs
December 7: How to mash up patterns
Tales of a Tester
December 21: Sewing with knits
Shani Sews
Januari 8: Sewing on the perfect binding
Droomstoffen
Januari 14: How to make your on bias tape
Boevenbende
Febuary 1: French seams
Winingwife
Feburary 14: Handstitching the right way
Sprouting Jube Jube
March 7: Buttons/buttonholes
Maryall Made
March 14: How to alter a pattern
Deka Wear

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Tutorial for Crossbody Envelope Purse and Wristlet

Hello everyone,

I know you will all enjoy this weeks post. Its and fun, quick, and easy tutorial designed with mom and daughter in mind. We will be making a envelope purse that can be used both as a crossbody purse or a wristlet. 

It is important to accessorize, so this little pattern will allow those who love handcrafting their own pieces create something new and in current fashion. This pattern is designed to accommodate adventurous beginning sewers. I say adventurous because we are using unlikely material (fabric we do not usually use in everyday sewing). This pattern was designed to be used with vinyl or leather. This purse should resemble something you would buy in store fore your little fashionista. 

You will also need a few pieces of hardware that you may not have on hand, such as swivel clips and d-rings so please review the supplies list ahead of time. 

I want to thank Lil Luxe Collection for working with me and giving me the opportunity to share my blog during her Sew 'N Style Series. If you have yet to check out her patterns please do. I think I already every single one of her patterns and am excited about her new designs in the works. 
A few of my favorite patterns include the Metropolitan Dress, The City Girl Romper, and the Haute Shorts.


Please share your creations with me. Feel free to comment below or email me if you have any questions. 

TUTORIAL


**Vinyl or leather purse

Materials and supplies required
For toddler size purse you will need:
·      3/8 yard of the main fabric (will accommodate outside layer of purse, Crossbody sash, bracelet strap/wristlet, and strap loops)
·      1/4 yard of lining fabric
·      a package of single fold bias tape in coordinating color )If making your own make sure to have at least one yard)
For Adult size purse you will need:
·      1/2 yard of the main fabric (will accommodate outside layer of purse, Crossbody sash, bracelet strap/wristlet, and strap loops)
·      3/8 yard of lining fabric
·      a package of single fold bias tape in coordinating color )If making your own make sure to have at least one yard)
For Both Versions you will also need:
·      Walking Foot or Teflon Foot (this will allow the vinyl or leather to move with the dog feed a lot smoother, ensuring cleaner stitches)
·      Rotary cutting tool, I recommend a new blade if available or Good sharp scissors
·      Coordinating Thread
·      Box cutter
·      ruler
·      marking pen/ marker/ pencil/ tailor's chalk
·      2 D-rings
·      3 swivel clips
·      1 magnetic snap (can use other purse closure of choice)
·      2" x 2" piece of heavy weight fusible interfacing
·      And of course a sewing machine with a thick gauge needle (size 16 or 18) **Remember this pattern was designed for heavy fabric such as vinyl or leather
Cutting Chart
***This pattern was designed for vinyl and leather fabric. Since vinyl and leather does not fray, the raw edges will remain visible. Please make sure to cut as straight as possible to ensure a clean, finished looking edge. I recommend using a rotary cutting tool to provide the best results.
Toddler size:
·       Purse:
o   Cut 1 of main fabric  13" x 8 1/2"
o   cut 1 of lining 13" x 8 1/2"
·       Crossbody Sash:  (can use main fabric or accent fabric)
o   cut 1 at 32" x 1 1/2"
·       Bracelet strap/ wristlet:  (can use main fabric or accent fabric)
o   cut 1 at 9" x 1 1/2"
·       strap loops: (can use main fabric or accent fabric)
o   cut 2 at 3" x 1 1/2"

Adult size:
·       Purse:
o   Cut 1 of main fabric  20" x 12 1/2"
o   cut 1 of lining 20" x 12 1/2"
·       Crossbody Sash:  (can use main fabric or accent fabric)
o   cut 1 at 49" x 1 1/2" (or cut 2 at 25" x 1 1/2")
·       Bracelet strap/ wristlet:  (can use main fabric or accent fabric)
o   cut 1 at  11" x 1 1/2"
·       strap loops: (can use main fabric or accent fabric)
o   cut 2 at 3" x 1 1/2"

Instructions:
***Cut the fabric based on the chart above
We will start by making the straps and loops first.
Constructing the Crossbody Sash:
1.     Place the sash cutout in front of you long side horizontally, wrong side up.

2.     Fold the long raw edges toward the center. Use clips to secure the folds.

3.     Straight stitch as close as you can to the center long raw edges. (You may also stitch a 1/8" seam along the long folded edges if needed, may be required for thicker fabrics) 





4.     Slide a swivel clip onto both ends of the sash (a total of two will be used for this step).

5.     Fold the short ends of the sash toward the wrong side of the sash encasing the swivel clips within the folds. Stitch as close to the short raw edge to secure the clips. (The wrong side will be the side with the visible raw edges)




The Crossbody sash is now complete. Please set aside.
 Constructing the Bracelet Strap/ Wristlet:
1.     Place the wristlet cutout in front of you wrong side up, long edge horizontally.

2.     Fold the long raw edges toward the center. Use clips to secure the folds.

3.     Straight stitch as close as you can to the center long raw edges. (You may also stitch a 1/8" seam along the long folded edges if needed, may be required for thicker fabrics) 



4.     Slide a swivel clip onto the bracelet. (You will only be using one swivel clip for this Step)

5.     Fold the bracelet strap in half right sides together, meeting the short raw ends. Make sure that the clip is slid to the center of the strap so it is out of your way. You will now sew the short end together with a 1/2" seam allowance.

6.     Trim off the excess tail as close to the seam as possible without cutting the seam thread.

7.     Turn the bracelet so that the stitched end is inside the loop you just created. Slide the swivel clip to the stitched end and encase the clip at this end by stitching about a 1/2" from the seam.

The Bracelet Strap/ Wristlet is now complete. Please set aside.
Constructing the D-Ring Loops for the main purse:
1.     Take the 3" x 1 1/2" cutout. Lay it out in front of you with wrong sides up and long edges horizontally.

2.     Fold the long raw edges toward the center. Use clips to secure the folds.

3.     Straight stitch as close as possible to the edge of the center long raw edges. (You may also stitch a 1/8" seam along the long folded edges if needed, may be required for thicker fabrics)


4.     Repeat with the other 3" x 1 1/2" cutout.



The loops are now ready for the next step. Set aside until you are instructed to use again. You should have two loops completed.

Finishing the Purse Construction:
1.     Lay the Main Purse Cutout in front on you short edges horizontally, wrong side up. Measure (4" for toddler size and 5" for adult size) down from the top edge and mark at both side seams.

2.     You will now collect the d-ring loop you made recently. Slide the D-ring onto the loop. Fold the loop in half wrong sides together, and short ends touching, with the d-ring still on. Place the loop at the marking you made in step one about 3/8" in with raw edges towards the center of the main purse cutout. The top edge of the loop should align with the marking.  Stitch the loop in place using a 1/4" seam allowance. 



3.     Repeat with the second loop to the other side seam.

4.     Now measure (5" for toddler size and 8" for adult size) from the bottom of the main purse cutout and draw a line from one side to the other. This will be you fold line, so make sure you are marking the wrong side of the main purse cutout. Fold up at the line wrong sides together and secure folds with clips. You will stitch 1/8" along the sides. Stitch again 1/8" in from the first stitch. This provides stability and looks clean and finished. The top flap of the main purse cutout should be untouched. 





5.     We will now prepare the lining fabric. Stitch the bias to the two short ends of the lining cutout and to the first 3 1/2" of the two long sides.
 I recommend only cutting the bias tape into 2 separate pieces, one for the sides and top and the other for the bottom edge. Remember to miter your corners. 


6.     Measure (5" for toddler size and 8" for adult size) from the bottom of the lining fabric cutout and place pins at the sides to mark the measurement. You will fold up at the pins right sides together and stitch 1/4" along the sides. The top flap portion the lining should be untouched up to now.

7.     We will now install the magnetic snap as the closure for this purse. Take the main outer purse layer in front of you. Leave the top flap of this main purse layer open and find the horizontal layer of the main body of the purse and measure 2 inches down from the center of the top purse edge. This will be where you install the bottom portion of the magnetic snap.
**See this video or this one to learn how to install a magnetic purse snap.
** Set the other portion of the snap to the side for a later step.





8.     We will install the top portion of the magnetic snap to the lining. You will need a 2" x 2" piece of heavy interfacing (This will ensure that the snap does not tear through the fabric when you open your purse.) Place the liner with wrong side facing up. Find the horizontal center by measuring between the side seams of your lining and mark the center. Then measure 1" down from the top of the flap and mark. The cross you just created will be where you install the snap. Iron the heavy interfacing over the cross or X marking, on the wrong side of the lining. Now refresh the markings and install the snap as per the directions in the videos I Linked in Step 6.





9.     Close the snap to make sure it is secure and working effectively. You will want to make sure you do this before completing the last steps. If all is working properly, open the snaps and move onto the next step.

10.  Insert the lining into the main purse with wrong sides together. Line up the finish top flap edges of the lining with the raw edges of the main purse layer. Stitch 1/8" along the edged of the top flap and the purse opening. You also have the option to stitch another 1/8" in from the previous stitch. 



11.  Fold down the top flap and close the purse.

Your new Crossbody Envelope Purse and Wristlet is now COMPLETE. Hope you enjoyed this tutorial enough to make a mommy and me version. :)