Sunday, December 20, 2015

Knits, knits, knits !!!

Knits are one of the scariest materials to work with for beginning seamstresses. Knits stretch and slide when you sew with them but practice and patience can help create some of the longest lasting and commonly worn garments you will ever make.

I have written a guest blog post for Sofilantjes about overcoming "Sewing with Knits" using the Sofilantjes Omni Tempore kid's pattern.

This post will review the differences between the most widely used knit fabrics. I have designed the bullet points below for a quick list and review of knits.

  • Jersey knit: Most commonly used, best for tees and summer dresses. Can be made of wool, cotton, and synthetic materials. Best to use cotton. 
  • Cotton Lycra: also used for tees. Material is made of cotton with a small percentage of lycra, or spandex. Soft to the touch, good stretch and recovery. This is typically the type of material used to make custom knits. 
  • Cotton ribbing: This can also be used for t-shirts and other clothing items but is limited to making cuffs, waistbands, and collars for garments. This is a double knit material with vertial rows. (Think men's sleeveless undershirts.)
  • Cotton Thermal: Cotton knit with a waffle pattern. This is best used for garments worn during cooler weather. 
  • French terry: Think terry cloth. This is a soft fabric. One side of the fabric is flat jersey-like while the other side has a higher pile. I recommend using this fabric for light-weight sweaters.
  • Sweatshirt knit: This one is easy to identify because it is how it sounds. This knit is the fabric used to make stretchy sweaters, like the typical store-bought hooded, zip-up, or crewneck sweaters.
  • Sweater Knit:
    • Hacci: These knits are light-weight stretchy materials. They are best for cardigans, light-weight shawls, and kimonos. Wrinkle resistant. 
  • Ponte de Roma: This knit has more structure to it, It is similar to the knit fabric used in store-bought polo shirts. Wrinkle and crease resistant. 
Recommended Sources for Knits

(upon receiving an order from a retail store I originally listed, I had to remove the retailer. Retail knit arrived saturated in the cigarette smoke. Lesson learned!)

***This is really a short list in comparison to the number of fabric resources that are available. I recommend visiting your local fabric stores in support of small business.
*** Also, feel free to ask me here if you are searching for a particular fabric or need any sewing help. I will do my best to help. 

Wednesday, December 16, 2015

Shirring: Don't be Scared

Hello, I wrote these blog post as a guest blogger at Sofilantjes about a month  back and have decided to share it here as well.

Too many people are scared of shirring. It is a great way to create a garment that will grow width-wise when needed. There is no need to be scared. The Sofilantjes Bruerum top and dress is a easy to follow pattern, best used to practice shirring. This cute little top has multiple skirt options, from top length to maxi.
Tips and Instructions key in shirring:
You will need:
  • The Sofilantjes Brueram top and dress pattern
  • Elastic thread is used in the bobbin (bottom thread)
  • Regular thread for the top
  • The fabric of choice (review page 11 for fabric chart)
  • pins
  • and of course your sewing machine
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For this Blog I made the top version in size 5. Please follow the instructions in the pattern closely so that you do not misstep. You will construct the bodice exactly as stated in the instructions given with the pattern. Remember that in steps 15 to 17 you are gathering and basting the top skirt piece separate from the back skirt piece. The side seams are left unsewn until step 25.
When you reach step 19 prep your bodice carefully for shirring. Please do not forget to pin the side seams to ensure that the main bodice back and the liner do not shift. Roll the elastic thread to the bobbin by hand. This will ensure that the bobbin is rolled correctly. While rolling the bobbin make sure you keep some tension on the elastic thread, stretching it slightly while rolling. Place the rolled bobbin in the sewing machine. For the top thread you will use regular sewing thread. I leave a long tail of elastic thread out to make sure that the bobbin thread feeds through the machine when I sew. For the sewing machine settings I left the default settings on. Thread width is set at 3.5 and stitch length is at 2.5. Stitch length is subject to fabric choices so practice shirring a small piece of the same fabric you will be using to make your garment.
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We will now begin to shir. I use my presser foot as my guide for where to start. It is best to space rows between 1/4" and 1/2". My presser foot helps space my rows at 3/8".
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Stitch from seam to seam in a straight line. You may not notice a lot of shirring after the first line. Continue to stitch the second row, using your presser foot as your guide.
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You can see in the picture above that the fabric is starting to gather after a few rows of stitching. Continue stitching the next rows until you reach the bottom of the bodice. Remember to use your presser foot to guide the spacing between the rows.
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This is what your bodice will look like in the end.
Complete constructing the Brueram following the instructions provided with the pattern.
This is my daughter wearing her new Brueram Top. She is in love with the hearts fabric.

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Please visit the Sofilantjes Blog page to read other Guest Blog posts following the schedule below. I am a guest blogger again on December 21 and I will be talking about KNITS!!!

October 7: Understitching
Adventures with Bubba and Bug
October 19: How to add pockets to a dress

Heart made by Suzy
November 2: How to adjust to skinny or plus size
Boutique Birdie
November 16: Shirring
Shani Sews
December 7: How to mash up patterns
Tales of a Tester
December 21: Sewing with knits
Shani Sews
January 8: Sewing on the perfect binding
Droomstoffen
January 14: How to make your on bias tape
Boevenbende
Febuary 1: French seams
Winingwife
Feburary 14: Handstitching the right way
Sprouting Jube Jube
March 7: Buttons/buttonholes
Maryall Made
March 14: How to alter a pattern
Deka Wear